A pupusa. A pupusaria. I mean, I’d marry the word if I could. Go ahead, say it out loud, it’s one of the most precious words that will ever come to your lips. Maybe you don’t hear the song that the word sings, but you’ll taste it. The taste, texture and temperature of a pupusa is what makes it unlike anything else you’ve had before. For me it translates to rainy day comfort or a hot summer night eat on the stoop. So, what is a pupusa? It’s a traditional Salvadoran dish made of thick corn tortilla and filled, typically, with a blend of cheese, meat and refried beans. Here at Mama Blanca, for $1.75, you can choose from the following: Quesillo (a mild, white cheese), mashed beans and cheese, chicken, chicharron (fried pork skin with some fat and meat left on, finely chopped) or zucchini. Don’t let the looks of them be deceiving, these plain janes are packed with an airy steam of oozing cheese and piping hot, fried and grilled meats that makes you close your eyes and nod your head yes. Did I mention that they’re $1.75 a piece? Nothing worth having is $1.75 in this world. The exception? Pupusa’s.
Let’s talk location. Mama Blanca is located on Saratoga Street in East Boston, directly across the street from the Orient Heights T stop (which, for the record, is closed for construction until the fall). When you walk in don’t expect too much attention from the staff, just grab a table and bring patience with you. It’s a super laid back, family owned and operated establishment with a juke box in the corner and family men escaping from their bustling reality for a Modelo or four.
The Plato Gordito, is a typical plate which will fill you right up. A plate of grilled shrimp, steak and chicken served with rice, beans and warmed tortillas alongside for a reasonable $12.50. The flavors were smokey and it was impressive in size. I also couldn’t resist the beef tongue taco which was perfectly grilled to tender perfection…with a squeeze of lime and a swig of Modelo to wash it all down, I was one satisfied woman.
Do you like Mexican food? Most likely. Have you had Bolivian? Probably not. Que Padre Taqueria in East Boston is the perfect opportunity for you to try something new while indulging in your Mexican favorites. This gem was opened less than a year ago in Day Square by chef/owner, Victor Duran. Victor, a Cambridge native with Bolivian blood was raised perfecting his mothers recipe for Saltenas. Saltenas are a Bolivian staple which are usually described as being similar to an empanada. The authentic, Sonoran Mexican dishes came into play after Victor visited his fiancé’s family in Sonora, Mexico. Not only did he take inspiration for his dishes from there, but also a few cooks with him.
With rumbles in my belly in the late morning hours, I found myself walking past Que Padre before they were even open. I spotted Victor unloading inventory from a truck into the store and I asked what time they opened. Although he expressed they weren’t quite ready yet, he welcomed me right inside. Victor is one of those people you automatically feel like giving a high five to. While I watched him open the store and observed him brushing the egg wash over the saltenas – getting them ready to pop in the oven- we went back and forth talking about the restaurant business, the local area, yelp reviewers, the way we were raised and more. By the time the saltenas were ready, he was my new friend.
As soon as the food hit my table, I fell silent. Victor thought something was wrong. But, this was the exact opposite from the case. Everything was oh-so-right. I started off with a Sonoran style hot dog, which if you’ve never had one, it’s really time to add that to your to-do list…like, this week. A Sonoran hot dog is wrapped in bacon and topped with pinto beans, onion, tomato, mustard, mayo and jalapeno sauce. It is placed into a not-your-average hot dog bun. But instead, into a special little cradle of a pocket of a bun. Even with all the sweet flavors from the toppings, it was the smokiness from the bacon that had me quietly falling in love with this Sonoran party in my mouth, and had Victor wondering “why the hell is she being so quiet?”
Next up, was the moment I had been waiting for. The very much talked about saltenas. If there is one thing I gathered through my time spent at the taqueria, it’s that Victor is passionate about what makes his saltenas, his saltenas. Victor and his family have been recognized over the years for their saltenas by the small Bolivian community that occupies Massachusetts. It’s clear to me that this family has spent many years perfecting what is now, one of the harder food items to find in this area. Before the saltenas hit the table, I was taught the correct way to eat a saltena. (Take note) First, hold it up right (in a piece of wax paper) then, bite off a corner and let the steam seep out. Once the steam escapes, slowly slurp the juices before biting in. If you don’t take these steps, you’ll have saltena juice squirting everywhere- trust me.
After my first bite, I instantly noticed the sweetness in contrast to an empanada…and, I liked it. Having been to Buenos Aires, and indulging in nothing but empanadas for two weeks straight, I understood the comparison but was happy to know that, saltenas are in fact, nothing like an empanada. Although they’re both “pockets” filled with meat…so are calzones. And, I would never compare a calzone to a saltena, or an empanada. These beautiful little pockets in front of me were a definite labor of love. With a choice of chicken or beef, I got one of each. They were filled with meat, potatoes, peas, eggs, olives and the juicy gravy. Silence took over me once again. I fell in love…twice!
At this point in my meal, although completely tempted by tacos, burritos, quesadillas, Sonora tortas, flautas, tostadas and Bolivian fare, I was stuffed to the brim. You will be psyched to know that Victor is in the late stages of planning a Que Padre Taqueria Food Truck that will grace the streets of Boston this summer! If you have the pleasure of meeting Victor, make sure you tell him Alexis sent you! Hats off and much respect to Victor and his team.
This Pinot Gris is such a refreshing start to spring. The wet stone minerality is the first aroma to jump out of the glass, followed by stone fruits such as white peach and apricot. There is a subtle hint of white flowers, making the wine floral, yet not perfumed. You can taste the youth of this wine by the very slight effervescence. This will blow off in time, but for now, it only enhances this wine’s already zippy acidity.
Pinot Gris is a European grape, more commonly known by its Italian alias, Pinot Grigio. In Italy, Pinot Grigio tends to have more acidity, less body, and shy fruit aromas. In northern France, the grape, Pinot Gris, has such a bold, rich personality, that you may not think they share the same DNA. The beautiful thing about Oregon is that it is capable of finding a middle ground between these two distinctly different styles, featuring the inherent characteristics of Pinot Gris, while appealing to all palates. However, don’t think every Pinot Gris from Oregon achieves this. Some producers don’t succeed, producing one of two styles: one style reminiscent of Italian Pinot Grigios, high in acid, but lacking character, or a bold, rich style of wine that lacks acidity, becoming a flabby inferior substitute to the Alsatian great white.
Finding the perfect balance is where winemaker extraordinaire, Joe Dobbes, comes in. He is a household name in Oregon, by wine virtue, not by overexposure. It is not surprising that he excels in creating honest, balanced wines. The Joe Dobbes and Dobbes Family Estate believe and invest in a sustainable farming culture. They do this because they believe sustainable farming creates a cleaner, more honest wine, while benefitting the land and leaving it better than it was before. Their winemaking facility was the first in Oregon to receive their LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology) certification, and also has their OCSW (Oregon Certified Sustainable Wines) certification. It is valuable to be recognized for their eco-friendly practices, but what’s most important to the Dobbes Family is that they are engaging in these practices for the greater good. Not only does sustainable farming enhance the fruit produced on the land, and the land itself, it provides a viable economy for the community of people involved in this labor of love. I can assure you that this holistic approach absolutely translates to the glass.
By Contributing Writer, Katie Kelly
This is the margarita you need to master. This is the simple and perfected recipe that will open the door to understanding where other flavor combinations come in (like the Strawberry Sriracha Margarita). This is your base, go-to margarita recipe. If you’re doing things right, you’ll have one shaken up by noon today.
You’ll need
- 1 1/2 oz tequila
- 1/2 oz cointreau
- juice of 1 lime
- 1/4 oz simple syrup
Directions
Add all ingredients into shaker with ice. Shake really hard for a nice cold bev. Add more simple syrup if you like it sweeter. Omit simple syrup for no sweet. Swipe lime wedge around rim of glass. Dip rim in sea salt. Pour over ice. Happy Cinco!
Who doesn’t love Sriracha? The beloved rooster has obtained a cult-like following and is a staple in many homes. Last year, Americans spent $60 million on the sauce. My fridge is completely naked without it. I mean, there’s a blog dedicated to cooking with Sriracha, there are t-shirts, potato chip flavors, lip balm, iPhone cases & booty shorts. And now, I present to you an effing brilliant, culty margarita, just in time for Sunday’s Cinco de Mayo.
I’m an on the rocks kind of gal, but feel free to blend this baby up for a frozen margarita or serve straight up, martini style.
You’ll need:
- 1 1/2 oz tequila
- 1/2 oz cointreau
- 4 large strawberries
- 1 tsp Sriracha (or more, or less – depending on your love for heat)
- Juice of 1 lime
- Sugar for rim
Directions:
Add strawberries, lime juice and Sriracha to the bottom of a shaker, muddle together. Add tequila and Cointreau. Add ice. Shake it baby. Swipe a lime wedge around the edge of your glass. Dip rim into a dish of sugar. Add ice. Strain. Pour. You can thank me later.
Outside-until-the-sun-goes-down weather is upon us here in the Bay State and that means your calendar for the next few months is beginning to stack up with invites to backyard bbq’s and vacation homes. On top of that, you’re hosting a mothers day brunch which is only weeks away. You can’t show up empty handed and nothing says “almost summer” like a rhubarb and citrus combo. Here is a simple, eye popping, zesty recipe that will please the masses.
You’ll need:
- 3 stalks of rhubarb
- 1 frozen pastry dough sheet (store bought)
- 1 large orange
- 1 lime
- 1/2 cup of sugar
- zest of an orange
Directions:
Pre-heat oven to 400. Defrost pastry dough. In a bowl, combine the juice of 1 large orange, the juice of 1 lime plus 1/2 cup of sugar, stir. Slice your rhubarb stalks on a diagonal, very thin. Place rhubarb slices in bowl with the juices for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. On a floured surface, roll out the dough just a bit and poke dough with a fork. Transfer square piece of dough onto a lightly floured baking sheet. Strain the rhubarb and reserve the liquid. Layer the rhubarb onto the dough, leaving the outer rim untouched (about an inch) Bake in the oven for about 25 minutes. During the last 15 minutes, transfer the orange juice liquid onto the stove and bring to a boil. Drizzle your tart with the reduction and finish with orange zest.
Thinly sliced rhubarb
Ready for the oven
I have some incredible humans in my life. They range from cheese aficionados to boutique owners to nutritionists to real estate pros. One of these top-notch friends of mine is Miss Katie Kelly, a serious wino and foodie. I asked her to be a frequent contributor to hole in the pearl. Katie is the Wine Director at The Citizen Wine Bar in Worcester, Massachusetts and will be sharing with us her thoughts on what she considers to be the “it” wine of the week/month/season. This week she talks about the 2009 Mollydooker “The Maitre D” Cabernet Sauvignon. Drum roll…
This week’s wine of the week is a true steal. Mollydooker, “Aussie for Left Hander” is one of the better known, well-respected producers out of Australia. They have a cult following that has now reached a more mainstream popularity, without compromising their integrity. They have gained such notoriety because of their distinct style. Their wines are incredibly dense, complex, and intense. They strive for wines of high “Fruit Weight” which they describe as “the percentage of your palate (from the tip of your tongue going all the way back) that’s covered by the velvety sensation of fruit, before you experience any of the structural components of the wine.” Simply put, these are highly intense wines.
What makes Mollydooker so unique is that they achieve this style through vineyard management and viticultural practices, not by over-extracting the grapes. When a wine is “over-extracted”, the winemaker macerated (soaked) the skins of the grape longer to achieve extra complexity and character, but also extracting extra tannins, creating an unbalanced structure. Instead of manipulating a grape to become intense in character, Mollydooker manipulates the development and ripening process of the vines through their “Marquis Vineyard Watering Programme”. This creates the Mollydooker signature style.
This particular Cabernet uses grapes from McLaren Vale, Padthaway, and Langhorne Creek in South Australia, then it is barrel fermented and aged in 80% American Oak, and 20% French Oak, new and used. This velvety wine has notes of red cherry, raspberry jam and black cassis. The dense fruit is complimented by notes of licorice, mocha, and eucalyptus. These pronounced aromatics are tied together and balanced with fine tannins.
Pour me a glass of that please!
(Written by, Katie Kelly, Contributing Writer)
My last post here on the blog was on Monday morning, April 15th. Marathon Monday morning is a time here in Boston that is always filled with excitement, pride, tradition and comradery. Purposefully, it was posted in the early morning, hoping to add to the excitement of the day. By noon, I had a handful of friends texting me pictures of them shaking up the cocktail I recommended for marathon celebrations. By 3 o’clock in the afternoon I had a handful of friends texting me “ARE YOU OKAY?”.
For what has been the most horrific and trying week in Boston’s history, we as a community have truly come together for what is now being called, “Boston Strong”. I want to take a moment here to pay my respects and give the most sincere THANK YOU to the handful of first responders, investigative team members, our Governor and our Mayor. I’d also like to give my deepest condolences to the victims and their families. Having gone through the many emotions, from absolute fear to absolute relief and pride; somewhere in the middle I was looking for comfort. On a normal week, I would take the T to my mothers in the North End to share a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine with her. With the sensitivity of the events going on, taking the T and heading into the city wasn’t an option. I turned, instead, to a local eatery.
On Tuesday, early afternoon, I took a walk on my beach. I had my head down with my mind on the tragedy our city was going through. My racing thoughts were interrupted by the smell of garlic; I knew exactly where it was coming from: Rossetti’s Restaurant. Rossetti’s is a very well known spot here in Winthrop and it was just what I needed, a dose of comfort food.
I took a seat at the window table, looking out onto Winthrop Shore Drive and the beach. It was nostalgic to notice that my seat stared out to the American flag standing proudly out on the breakers. The restaurants windows were open, I took a deep breath of the briny air and felt my first feelings of comfort. I ordered the soft shell crab special and dunked my hearty bread deep into the dish of olive oil and hot red pepper in front of me. 
The seasonal special arrived at the table over a bed of arugula with cherry tomatoes, capers and a spicy aioli. It was a great pairing alongside my salt watered atmosphere. Having not been able to peel myself off of the couch and away from the television for a day now, it was what felt like my first bites of nourishment since the previous days events.
My hungry eyes grazed the menu again and set on another special, the grilled calamari served in a spicy plum tomato sauce with chickpeas, kalamata olives and capers. When it came to the table I was shocked by it’s size. You really do get a bang for your buck here. It was $10.00 and it looked like this.
Rossetti’s is the perfect spot for hearty dishes at great prices…did I mention it’s BYOB with no corkage fee?? Amazing. I was in flavorful bliss, they were all matched up with the tastes of home and that is exactly what I was looking for. After a few bites I was joined at the table by Bobby Rossetti, one of the owners. One of the first things he opened up with was, “Bobby Orr sat there you know”. I felt like I had known him forever, and could have easily sat there and talked for hours. He told me that the seat I was sitting in is one of the most sought out seats of all 34 in the restaurant. He also told me about a scene in a book that took place at Rossettis. Of course the first thing I did when I went home was found the book. The part that spoke to me the most on this day was this:
“They drove towards Winthrop. They parked on a side street just around the corner from Rossetti’s Restaurant, a small Italian bistro operated by two brothers whose menu consisted of recipes they had learned from their mother….Despite the sound of the gusty wind and the sight of white-capped surf, there was a certain peacefulness and solitude to the scene.”
I should mention that Bobby sent over a dish of bolognese which highlighted their homemade pasta. The pasta of the day was fusilli. And, I could tell it was made in-house not only from its texture, but because one piece was not the same size as the next…just like home. He also told me some great news, a second Rossetti’s will be opening in Lynn late this summer, it will be a large eatery with a full bar.
My fellow Bostonians, I urge you to jump on the Winthrop Ferry (leaves from Rowes Wharf and starts in mid-May), pick up a bottle of wine and get yourself to Rossetti’s to enjoy seasonal specials like the Beet salad with pecans, crumbled goat cheese, fresh berries & pomegranate vinaigrette or the Flatbread with buffalo mozzarella, red & yellow beefsteak tomatoes, peppadew peppers, arugula & shaved parmesan. I’m confident that Bobby will make you feel taken care of, like he did for me on such a critical day. #BostonStrong
It’s Marathon Monday here in Boston. And, if you’re like most of the people I know, you are either drinking on the sidelines rooting on friends, or hosting people at your apartment on the Marathon route. Whichever the case may be, it could potentially be the perfect day for a gin basil lemonade cocktail.
I was lucky to stumble on these 100th anniversary Ball jars which are in their signature, throwback “vintage blue”. My heart was pounding when they arrived at my house…pure excitement. The first thing I did was whip up this cocktail.
You’ll need
- 2 oz gin
- 1 oz simple syrup
- 2 oz water
- the juice of 2 lemons
- 6 sprigs of basil, muddled
- sea salt for rim
Directions
- In a shaker, add 1 oz of simple syrup + basil + lemon juice: muddle together
- Add 2 oz gin + 2 oz water + ice cubes: shake
- Salt the rim
- Pour over ice
Beware, these go down EASY so tread lightly, and enjoy the marathon!
hole in the pearl 