Do you like Mexican food? Most likely. Have you had Bolivian? Probably not. Que Padre Taqueria in East Boston is the perfect opportunity for you to try something new while indulging in your Mexican favorites. This gem was opened less than a year ago in Day Square by chef/owner, Victor Duran. Victor, a Cambridge native with Bolivian blood was raised perfecting his mothers recipe for Saltenas. Saltenas are a Bolivian staple which are usually described as being similar to an empanada. The authentic, Sonoran Mexican dishes came into play after Victor visited his fiancé’s family in Sonora, Mexico. Not only did he take inspiration for his dishes from there, but also a few cooks with him.
With rumbles in my belly in the late morning hours, I found myself walking past Que Padre before they were even open. I spotted Victor unloading inventory from a truck into the store and I asked what time they opened. Although he expressed they weren’t quite ready yet, he welcomed me right inside. Victor is one of those people you automatically feel like giving a high five to. While I watched him open the store and observed him brushing the egg wash over the saltenas – getting them ready to pop in the oven- we went back and forth talking about the restaurant business, the local area, yelp reviewers, the way we were raised and more. By the time the saltenas were ready, he was my new friend.
As soon as the food hit my table, I fell silent. Victor thought something was wrong. But, this was the exact opposite from the case. Everything was oh-so-right. I started off with a Sonoran style hot dog, which if you’ve never had one, it’s really time to add that to your to-do list…like, this week. A Sonoran hot dog is wrapped in bacon and topped with pinto beans, onion, tomato, mustard, mayo and jalapeno sauce. It is placed into a not-your-average hot dog bun. But instead, into a special little cradle of a pocket of a bun. Even with all the sweet flavors from the toppings, it was the smokiness from the bacon that had me quietly falling in love with this Sonoran party in my mouth, and had Victor wondering “why the hell is she being so quiet?”
Next up, was the moment I had been waiting for. The very much talked about saltenas. If there is one thing I gathered through my time spent at the taqueria, it’s that Victor is passionate about what makes his saltenas, his saltenas. Victor and his family have been recognized over the years for their saltenas by the small Bolivian community that occupies Massachusetts. It’s clear to me that this family has spent many years perfecting what is now, one of the harder food items to find in this area. Before the saltenas hit the table, I was taught the correct way to eat a saltena. (Take note) First, hold it up right (in a piece of wax paper) then, bite off a corner and let the steam seep out. Once the steam escapes, slowly slurp the juices before biting in. If you don’t take these steps, you’ll have saltena juice squirting everywhere- trust me.
After my first bite, I instantly noticed the sweetness in contrast to an empanada…and, I liked it. Having been to Buenos Aires, and indulging in nothing but empanadas for two weeks straight, I understood the comparison but was happy to know that, saltenas are in fact, nothing like an empanada. Although they’re both “pockets” filled with meat…so are calzones. And, I would never compare a calzone to a saltena, or an empanada. These beautiful little pockets in front of me were a definite labor of love. With a choice of chicken or beef, I got one of each. They were filled with meat, potatoes, peas, eggs, olives and the juicy gravy. Silence took over me once again. I fell in love…twice!
At this point in my meal, although completely tempted by tacos, burritos, quesadillas, Sonora tortas, flautas, tostadas and Bolivian fare, I was stuffed to the brim. You will be psyched to know that Victor is in the late stages of planning a Que Padre Taqueria Food Truck that will grace the streets of Boston this summer! If you have the pleasure of meeting Victor, make sure you tell him Alexis sent you! Hats off and much respect to Victor and his team.
hole in the pearl 